New dresses, New Dyeing

Summer is in full swing and I am very busy! While it is hard to be disciplined and go to my studio when the weather is gorgeous out I really feel very rewarded when dyeing new fabrics and working on new projects.
And PS the new Shabd Alexander book is awe inspiring!
Here's a peek at a new custom dress.

And more patterns...

Just some causal pattern mixing as found via Roz via livefastmag.com.

Line is called  MGSM.  Good proportions. Sweet sunglasses. I want.

Printed.

I recently took a Digital Textile Design class at 3rd Ward in Brooklyn. The class was only two sessions but for those with somewhat of a handle on Photoshop and Illustrator it was really a jumping point into textile design.
I found a Picasso painting to pull inspiration from and off I went with my watercolors. Last night I took the leap and decided to get a yard printed, for shorts obviously.

want it NOW!!!!

LOVING Chistopher Bailey's Burberry.
Need it: patterns, bright colors, GREAT jackets AND thousands of dollars to buy them with....
A lady can dream....

All photos via style.com

Loves these Fashion Drawings!!!!

As if I needed to find this website, PAPERFASHION.

Jenna Lyons of JCREW.

Detail.

For fun.

These remind me that I like to draw and these make me WANT to draw.
THANKS Katie Rodgers!
All photos via PAPERFASHION.

Wiksten Summer 2011

Wishlisting it.

Though Wiksten does sometimes sell sewing patterns and I bought one for a tank/tank dress.
Will post pic of dress I made soon.
She sews all the pieces on her line herself and just moved away from Brooklyn(sadface).

photos via Wiksten.

Wish list.

To get to work I walk past the Yigal Azrouel store on 14th St.

NOT COOL.

Loves Nouveau Dandies!!!!

Dear Mens, dress like this and I'm all yours!!!!

See the NYtimes- Dress Codes- New Victorians.

That's right my friends these are NEW clothes.

Love it!!!!

Extra Credit for the old time portrait styling.

I want some...Isabel and Cleo....

The utterly intense and time consuming cropped layered rectangle jacket.

Isabel and Cleo is an amazing line and I though I'd shout it out to all my (cyber) friends!!!

So take a peek...

Also, a fellw SAIC alum.

Yarn Closet.

Isabel and Cleo's portfolio.

Where do you like to work?

I don’t have a favorite place right now, I used to love my space in the school’s textile studio but now that I’ve finished my degree I’ve been kicked out of the building. I work from home and I haven’t really quite got everything set up yet. Sometimes I still go into the Glasgow School of Art to knit in a hallway called the Hen Run. It’s got a beautiful view over the city and because it’s made entirely of windows it’s probably one of the warmest spots to be in Glasgow on those rare days when the sun is out all day.

The plaited basketweave angora racer back tank.

What time of day is most productive for you to work and why do you think that is?

Hmm. Honestly? The time varies but it always directly corresponds to me avoiding some task that needs to be done in my everyday life. This is when I’m most productive, when I’m pro”craft”inating.

What materials do you use and most like to work with and where do you get them, locally? online?? if online where? etc.

I used to buy remnants and recycled yarn in bulk lots off of Ebay, which was perfect when I was just doing knitted accessories and it also helped keep my costs down. But now that I am actually making clothing, I can’t get away with remnants. There just isn’t usually ever enough to make an entire garment, let alone a size range. I have wholesale accounts with two big British companies, Rowan and Todd and Duncan and I buy yarn through them because it’s obviously cheaper than buying retail. I really like working with chunky handknit yarns. My favorites are Rowan’s Big Wool and Cocoon (a merino and mohair blend), and for machine knitting I prefer Todd and Duncan’s Lamaine (really soft lambswool). I also prowl Etsy to get special haberdashery items like massive wooden buttons and go to flea markets and vintage shops to find little trinkets to put on my knitted pendant necklaces.

The Entrelac Mens Shirtdress.

Where does your source material come from ( do you do reseach at the library to get ideas etc.)

It can really be anything really. I do go to the library but only after I already have an idea in my head about what I’m looking for. I also am inspired by textures that I see outside or things I see people wearing on the street. A lot of times I see non-knit items, and am curious to how they would work as knits. That actually happened earlier today when a girl I saw wearing a very textured shearling and suede combo cropped jacket. For my current collection my inspiration came from textured paper sculptures that I’d made and then tried to recreate in knit. See photo Pant progression.

What kind of images inspire you, do you keep a sketchbook(if so can you scan/ photograph some of your favorite pages)?

I basically rip out anything I find remotely interesting and keep it either in a sketchbook or a binder. It depends on how relevant the images are to my current work, whether they go in a sketchbook or binder. I save the most appropriate images for my sketchbooks.

Isabel and Cleo history(past work).

How long have you been working in your chosen medium? Are you trained?

On and off and then on on on since I was probably around 8. I studied knitting while doing my fashion degree at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and I just finished my masters in Textile Design with an emphasis in Knitwear at the Glasgow School of Art in Scotland. I’ve also worked and done a couple internships in the industry at Blake Standard in Chicago and Nom*D and Karen Walker , both in New Zealand.

What techniques and processes are your favorite?

I love hand knitting, I love texture, and I really love hand knitting chunky yarn to create massive texture. I try to interact and manipulate the knit fabric as much as possible while I am making it, so the texture is a part of the process, although sometimes texture does come later. I go so far as to say the whole idea of a process is my favorite part of what I do. I always seem to blindly walk into an idea that ends up taking way more time and materials than I ever imagined (The Layered Rectangle Jacket or the fringe trousers in my Etsy shop are two examples).

Isabel and Cleo workspace.

What is special and inspiring about living where you do?

Oh my god, I live in Scotland! Scotland has a huge knitting heritage, it’s everywhere! It’s not always the kind of knitwear I like to wear or design, but knits are inescapable here nonetheless. Just try to walk three blocks in the city center without passing a cashmere shop. Towards the end of my degree I thought I would leave Scotland but everything I need is here. Some of the biggest and best yarn mills and factories are all here. There are also may national and private organizations, shops, and community initiatives that support local independent designers.

The Hen Run.

What is a normal day like for you, how many hours a day/week do you get to actually focus and produce new works?

I have no ‘normal’ days, I was actually just moaning to a friend about how I wish I had a routine, with a set day or time where I was solely focused on producing my collection. Unfortunately I still have to work part time to pay the bills and my materials. I’m trying to get more organized, but it’s only me; I have to be the business and the creative side. If an opportunity presents itself or if paperwork needs to be done, I have to put the creative side on hold for the day. That can be very frustrating, so I try to have one day full a week where I don’t answer any calls, emails, go over any accounts, and just create. An entire day of knitting is a luxury. Don’t even ask about free time. It doesn’t exist

Who are your fav designers??

Sandra Backlund, Swedish Designer

Whoever does Stella McCartney’s knits

Nick Cave

Alber Elbaz of Lanvin

Lutz and Patmos

Sandra Backland

Lutz and Patmos

Do you go to museums? what is your favorite art related place to go (a place you feel inspired after you leave)??? is it a gallery, store, section in a museum???

I must admit since graduating from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago I rarely go to museums. I do wish I had appreciated the museum more when it was available to me. My favorite place to go in Glasgow is Che Camille, a local store dedicated to independent designers and artists. It’s completely amazing and the owner just totally reeves you up with her contagious enthusiasm, I always leave feeling inspired and motivated. I also frequently go to the Glasgow School of Art, it’s a very famous, very beautiful building. Being in it makes me feel special and I can never articulate why. It just does. Instead of museums, I think I subconsciously surround myself around other makers, designers, and artists. Their motivation motivates me. It’s almost like being in a race, though not in a competitive way. Feeling the presence of the other runners around you all moving toward a similar goal pushes you forward and encourages you not to slack off or give up.

The Caterpillar Racerback Tank.

Flats.

Dear Drawings, Damn you lookin' fine!

The very colorful and talented Anna Hovet...

Anna at her Spring 2010 Runway Show, photo by David H. Lasker.

Meet my very talented friend and fellow alumni of SAIC Anna Hovet, she has her own line of ready to wear based in Chicago. I've invested in a Beckett Jacket as seen a few blog posts ago.

I love having talented friends!!!

See more or Anna's work here.

The Rachel Hoodie

What materials do you you use and most like to work with and where do you get them? I love to work with cotton jersey because is so wearable and comfortable. There's also a lot that can be done with sweatshirt fleece that few designers have done before. I'm planning to expand my line with more hooded and uniquely draped sweatshirts. Since I'm still small I buy from retail stores including Mood and Stretch World in NYC, and Fishmans and Vogue in Chicago. As my company grows I will start buy in larger quantities from mills.

Anna in her home studio

What does your workspace look like? I do most of my designing from home, sample-making in my studio workshop, and all my business work from my office.

Where does your source material come from ( do you do reseach at the library to get ideas etc.) The majority of my designs are inspired by creative looks young people are wearing. I spend a lot of time in the Chicago fashion/art/music scene and love to see what the hipster art kids are wearing. I also check out www.lookbook.nu often to see what hot in streetwear around the world.

What kind of images inspire you, do you keep a sketchbook? I don't keep a continuous sketchbook. I do most of my sketching as I'm designing the collection. Many of my images come from blogs and I store all the files digitally.

Can you photograph one of your early works. Above is my favorite collection from my senior year at SAIC. It was inspired by victims of and art addressing domestic violence. The collection was very successful and I now sell a ready-to-wear sweatshirt (the Speak Out Hoodie) that is inspired by the same theme. (As seen below)

What techniques and processes are your favorite? I love draping and knotting jersey. The best way to design is right one the form rather than through flat patterns.

What is special and inspiring about living where you do ? I grew up in North Dakota but I've always been a city girl. I moved to Chicago in 2003 and love it here. Chicago has so many interesting people and places to go. Plus I really believe there is a lot of untapped opportunity in Chicago for young business owners.

The Reversible Megan Dress.

What is a normal day like for you, how many hours a day/week do you get to actually focus and produce new works? Every day is different for me depending on what needs to be done that day. It can be anything from production to designing, to finances, to fashion shows. I'm now realizing that having your own fashion line requires less actual designing and much more business, marketing, and planning.

Who are your favorite designers? Honestly I don't study many other designers. If I had to choose I'd say Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood for different reasons.

Do you go to museums? What is your favorite art related place to go (a place you feel inspired after you leave)? Is it a gallery, store, section in a museum? After attending SAIC I was pretty bored with the Art Institute but now I'm re-inspired by the new Modern Wing. My Spring 2010 is inspired by self-definitions and Joseph Kosuth's work in the Modern Wing of the Art Institute.

Anna modeling her own Speak Out Hoodie.

Dress + Friends + LOVE= Good times!

Drumroll please, present the dress I made for my friend's wedding. I love it and I especially love the red crystal clutch I got to wear with it.

See friends and good times had.

Prom Style.

Facebook Style.

Sort of Candid Style.

Bare Bones.

Dear Dress,

Please look hot for the wedding!

Peek a Boo!

I love buying from other small designers, it makes me feel good to put some money into another designers pocket, especially when the clothes are made stateside.

I need a new winter jacket and my friend and fellow SAIC alumni Anna Hovet had the perfect fix. A little girly but with my witch boots and navy wardrobe I think it's perfect.

Can't wait to get in it!

Say Hello to Anna Hovet's Beckett Jacket.

See the rest of Anna's collection here.